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BROTHERS’ Power Brake Conversion is manufactured to work with drum/drum, disc/drum, or four-wheel disc applications; to keep things simple, we choose the first option, as the power assist would be enough in itself to bring the Stepside to a quick and safe halt. The cool thing about the kit is that it’s designed to bolt right onto the truck’s framerail with the only modification being the relocation of the emergency brake cable bracket, plus having to drill a couple holes. A minor bit of brake line bending and rerouting also comes into play, but the benefit the kit affords, it’s a piece of cake.
NOTE: This installation was performed on a ’55-’59 truck. The installation for trucks ’47-’54 is the same.
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- The Power Brake Kit from BROTHERS comes complete minus extra brake line, fluid, and various fittings – all of which can be obtained from your local parts store. The bracketry’s design allows for a clean and easy installation, while the compact size affords a nice fit in the framerail.
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- Though a tad rusty, the old single-chamber master cylinder was still operating just fine, but I liked the idea of not only upgrading to power-assist, but having a dual-chamber system for obvious safety’s sake. (Note: the E-brake pulley immediately left of the cylinder needs to be relocated rearward with the installation. We’ll be installing an aftermarket unit later, so this was deleted altogether.)
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- Unless you’ve got a buddy in need of a stock master, the only thing you need to save is the brake pedal arm, as it bolts right on to the new cylinder linkage.
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- For location-finding purposes, the center of the booster/cylinder bracket bolts to the factory framerail mount.
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- New holes need to be drilled for the rear mounting of the bracket, after which you’ll want to carefully bend the old brake line out of the way for future work.
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- Next up, installing the plunger rod ear on the stock brake pedal, then sliding them into the bracket with the supplied pivot bushing(complete with zerk fitting).
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- The power booster canister can now be slid into position and secured back on the bracket with the supplied hardware. The RB’s 700-R4 trans crossmember came close to interfering with the booster positioning, but no modifications were needed; check for clearance before you get into trouble.
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- The plunger rod assembly goes in next, just as it was when the kit was disassembled.
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- The bracket also features a gusset-type support that attaches to the lower edge of the framerail by simply drilling a hole and installing the hardware
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- With the bracket and booster all in place, We proceeded by bench-bleeding the new master cylinder. We bent up a short length for steel line for the job.
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- All bled, filled with fluid, and the cap tightly installed, the master cylinder is finally reunited with the booster. While the kits with proportioning valves (disc applications) come with fittings, you have to supply them for them for the drum/drum style as we did.
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- Thanks to the folks at BROTHERS, brake line flaring was made easy with a new Hydra Flare. Then hand-held hydraulic tool makes the dreaded job of double flaring actually fun!
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- With the complete unit snugly in place, We bent up the new brake line configuration. Careful attention is always paid to making sure every fitting and union is as tight as possible – fluid leaks are not acceptable!
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- BROTHERS includes a see-through plastic fill bottle with the kit, necessary due to the location of the new master cylinder being further back from the stock access hole in the floor. The transparent plastic makes it easy to tell when the brake fluid is getting low, but you still have to use the old “finger-gauge” method for the master cylinder itself.
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- The last thing you need to do before wrapping up with a full bleeding (the truck, not you) is bend up and install a vacuum line for the booster. We choose to run a brass 90 off the manifold instead of just T’ing off the back of the carburetor.
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- We fashioned a piece of 5/16 hardline that threads into the 90 and then runs down to the canister.
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- The end of the hardline was barbed, then a piece of flex line cut and attached to it and the plastic fitting on the booster. With a good bleeding of all four wheel cylinders, then a complete check for any leaks, we were back on the road – in a much safer way, to boot! Nothing beats a good break system, no matter what type of vehicle you’re driving.
8 Comments
will this power brake kit have clearance issues with a original 3speed manual transmission.
Yes. This requires automatic for power brakes. It will not work with the factory manual crossmember. However, you can run a dual master non-power brake setup. Take a look at this bracket in our online store: Part #DMC5959 – 55-59 Dual Master Cylinder Bracket. This will allow you to run the dual master cylinder.
I have a 1949 3800 dually stake bed with the SM420 toploader 4-speed (floor shift). There is not a transmission crossmember on this truck; only the rear engine mount at the front of the bellhousing. This is the 137 inch wheelbase truck. I’ve looked at this power conversion unit pics here and a youtube video install of your kit, as well as looking at the clearances under my truck. Since I have no shift linkage do deal with, my parking brake is a lever mount on the floor on the passenger side of the transmission, and the clutch linkage is all ahead of the stock master cylinder, I’m wondering why it would not work? Could you share the general dimensions of the assembled unit? Looking for the measurement from the brake pedal arm attachment point to the booster bracket, overall length of the assembled kit, and the width of the assembled kit at the booster. I can forward pictures if that would be helpful.
Much easier to have you call our customer service department and lets chat 800-977-2767.
1954 3100 Chevy truck
I’m using a 235 engine
T5 trans
disk front and back
can you guys guide me in right direction
I’m looking to purchase power brake kid for my truck
https://www.brotherstrucks.com/Power-Brake-Conversions/products/1279/
My 59 is a original 3speed manual transmission that i’m converting to auto. I know i need to move the crossmember and the clutch bracket but the brakes (master cyl) is on a bracket too, sticking out from the frame. That’s not in your pictures. I assume that has to go and the new kit from you guys bolts to the actual frame?
Yes sir, everything from the old system will be removed, with the exception of the original pedal assembly, and the new kit will replace the old stuff. We will be working on a video for this installation shortly, so subscribe to our YouTube channel for updates. https://www.youtube.com/user/BrothersTruckParts