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Preventive maintenance is the key to keeping your truck on the road. The following pages are step by step instructions to rebuild your stock front suspension properly and safely.
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Once the truck is supported properly on jack stands and the front wheels are taken off for extra space, remove any cotter pins and loosen (do not remove) all nuts on the rod ends and ball joints. A pickle fork was used to brake loose the ball joints and all rod ends.
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You will have to remove the coil springs and spindles to do the job. By removing the nuts holding the ball joints in place and removing the shocks we are able to carefully lower the control arm thus making the removal of the spring and spindle possible. Note: we have also removed the calipers so as not to place undo bind on the flexible brake line.
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The spring will drop out. Note: there’s a notch that the spring fits into on the lower A-arm when it comes time to re-install.
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Here the nut is loosened that holds the main body of the tie rod to the idler arm.
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The old tie rods and adjusters are easily removed. Make as exact measurements as you can of the length of these two bars so that you can transfer that measurement to the new setup. This will keep you in the “ballpark” when it comes time to go to the alignment shop.
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Install the new components but don’t tighten or lubricate until later.
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The new tie rod ends and adjusting sleeves have left and right hand threads so make sure to do not cross-thread any of them.
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The pickle fork is used to remove the idler arm from the idler arm bracket that attaches to the frame. Make sure to check the bracket and frame for any stress cracks or damaged to the frame at this point.
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The original idler arm was surprisingly easy to remove given the high probability of it being an original component.
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The installation of the new idler arm is the opposite of the removal. Note: the rubber bushings between the bracket and tie rod center link.
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The upper cross shaft is held to the frame via two bolts and is easily removed. However, the secret lies behind the upper cross shaft.
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The upper cross shaft conceals the alignment shims. Don’t mix up the shims! If the shims are to be removed, make sure to tape them together and tag for proper relocation.
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Here is an expanded view of the upper cross shaft and it’s individual components which include threaded cup ends, bushings and grease fittings.
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Note: the upper cross shaft has one side that is flat and one side that is cupped side points out (towards you) when installing. The flat side goes toward the frame.
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When installing the greasable fittings, make sure not to overtighten as the mounting threads can be easily stripped or cross-threaded.
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The rubber cup must be installed onto the upper cross shaft before the actual end cup can be run through the upper A-arm which then holds the shaft in position.
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Here is the new upper cross shaft is in position with the rubber cup in place (hidden by the A-arm). It’s time to install the outer up with greasable fittings in place. Note: the shaft threads into the inner cup threads while the outer cup threads thread into the A-arm.
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The upper ball joint is a bolt-in operation. Original ball joints are held in place by rivets. Note: our old ball joints must have been changed atleast once before as they were already bolted in. Simply remove the original rivets with an air chisel or grind the tops of them off and hit them out with a punch.
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You want the surface cleaned and prepped before installing the new ball upper ball joint.
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The new ball joint drops into position. Make sure to get the rubber boot seated properly before tightening the nuts on the bolts.
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The lower A-arm required that the old ball joint be pressed out. If you do not have an at-home hydraulic press, go to your local machine shop or auto parts store for installation.
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The lower cross shaft rests in the permanently mounted cross shaft saddle (shown). Note: the attachment bolt, this aligns with a single index hole on the cross shaft itself.
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The single index hole assures that the lower cross shaft is installed correctly, ensures alignment and “permanent” position.
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Make sure to lubricate the threaded ends of the cross shaft with grease before installing the positioning caps.
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Again, the mounting cups are threaded both on the inside and out. The inside threads capture the cross shaft while the outer threads capture the A-arm.
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Well, that about wraps up the “freshening up” of the front suspension. Re-install the spindles, coils, and control arms in the reverse order. Then go back and tighten each lock-nut and install new cotter pins were needed. Lastly with the truck still in the air, grease all of the new components (ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, upper & lower cross shafts, etc.) Now that the truck is driveable, off to the alignment shop.
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8 Comments
You guys need to get with David Welch and make a freaking video…. I am redoing my front end right now and a video would go way farther than white and black pictures…..
Thanks for the request Doug. We’ll be sure to put that on the list.
Thank you a ton for this! I just bought my first project truck a 72 C10 long boy. A ton to learn. I’m in Franklin TN and there’s a lot of talent out here. Keep posting..and if you want to stop by and shoot an episode..the truck is in boxes and I could use some help…lol!
In response to Doug for wanting a video, why? the black n white is pretty much cut n dry at least it was for me.
I agree with Doug a video of the entire process will be a lot more beneficial. Thanks
I have a 62 corvair Rampside Chevy FC 95 GM truck, I think it is rated a heavy 1/2 ton but light weight with 5 lug Chevy wheels. any plans on supplying parts for them? I guess there is a lot interchangeable, if we only knew part numbers etc.. like front end brake conversions, and bushings and parts to rebuild suspensions.
Well, Im thankful for the text provided with the black and whites. It tells you all you need to know, thanks again!
We actually have a video for this project on our YouTube channel now too!